[kpj]

i would use the 331 over the 347. if you plan on running it often the youll notice that the 347 will use oil due to the fact that the pin is in the oil ring. Probe makes a nice kit, all forged and with a few different comp ratios.

There are quite a few companies out there that make piston's for both kit's that put the wrist pin below the oil ring. Just an FYI.

 

[JeepCrawler98]

Rear Sump Oil Pans

Engine is all built, just need the oil pan and pick-up. Which vehicles came with a rear-sump oil pan? I'm using a '68 stang block with 5.0 injection, and while I'm overhauling it I'd like to get away from the low capacity (I think 3qt ) front sump oil pan. Is there a factory application that had a higher capacity rear sump oil pan and will bolt up to the older 302 blocks? I'd like to stay away from blowing 350 bucks on a Milodine setup.

 

[TNRanger]

6 Qt rear sump pan from F-150. Should be all of them 81-96(TTB front) for sure.

 

[5.0lyj]

Mine is an '86 Bronco pump, pick-up and oil pan..

 

[St4L1N]

Harness question

Will a 5.0 engine harness from a 97 Explorer work on a 88 mark VII HO motor? Also since the 5.0 HO 88 mustang is SD will the licoln be SD instead of MAS?:flipoff2:

 

[dozer dude]

rock-rod:

My plan is to cut a square portion encompassing the three fittings out of the tank, and then graft a new piece of sheet aluminum with the mustang electric fuel pump hanger installed on it. Since the tank has already been used, there is no way I will attempt to tig the plate to the tank. I plan on making a steel reinforcement ring with bolts weld to it the will come up through the inside, and the new plate will bolt to it through the tank metal. I am basically copying the idea for the filler neck retention method.

I'm thinking of doing something similar with my plastic summit fuel cell, it is about the correct depth for the factory mustang pump. I will need to lengthen the pump bracket only 1/2" or so for the pick up to hit bottom. I had the stock mustang gas tank from which I cut out the mounting ring from, and now I am going to remove the filler cap and plate from the cell and fab a mounting plate to weld the ring to. I will end up putting a remote filler hole in one of the corners of the cell, and then put the mustang pump in the center with some kind of small sump around the pick up. I hope it works.

I'm still not sure about what to do for fuel lines. I wish I still had the mustang lines to work with from the donor car. I ended up junking them with what was left of the the body.

Would like to see some pics of others fuel lines & pumps for ideas.

 

[Tripod]

Please forgive if this was already covered...I fell asleep a couple of times while rereading through the past 21 pages...

I currently have an 89 Mustang - complete. It was given to me...FREE. Problem is that the motor is garbage (blown...flooded...etc.). I guess you get what you pay for :flipoff2:

Question: Can I take the best parts off the 89 mustang (fuel injection with MAF, wiring harness, computer) and drop it on a low mileage Explorer 5.0 engine which has better GT40P heads? What will the problems be?

Or, am I better off just buying another 89-92 Mustang?

HELP

 

[rock-rod]

Please forgive if this was already covered...I fell asleep a couple of times while rereading through the past 21 pages...

I currently have an 89 Mustang - complete. It was given to me...FREE. Problem is that the motor is garbage (blown...flooded...etc.). I guess you get what you pay for :flipoff2:

Question: Can I take the best parts off the 89 mustang (fuel injection with MAF, wiring harness, computer) and drop it on a low mileage Explorer 5.0 engine which has better GT40P heads? What will the problems be?

Or, am I better off just buying another 89-92 Mustang?

HELP

Absolutely. Just remember you want to keep the explorer intake- it's a modified cobra intake and flows way better than the stock mustang intake. Swap the cams. The explorer cam is very tame and falls off at 4k rpm.

Swap all the exterior stuff from the mustang motor to the explorer motor- including the oil pan, front cover, balancer, and pulleys. I would also use the mustang headers too.

The p heads are the best out there in terms of flow from a stock cast iron small block ford head. You want those. The explorer intake is also a big plus. It has the staggered round runners instead of the inline square runners. The explorer also comes with a 65 mm throttle body and it can be adapter to work if you retrofit the mustang throttle lever onto the explorer throttle body.

 

[rock-rod]

rock-rod:


I'm thinking of doing something similar with my plastic summit fuel cell, it is about the correct depth for the factory mustang pump. I will need to lengthen the pump bracket only 1/2" or so for the pick up to hit bottom. I had the stock mustang gas tank from which I cut out the mounting ring from, and now I am going to remove the filler cap and plate from the cell and fab a mounting plate to weld the ring to. I will end up putting a remote filler hole in one of the corners of the cell, and then put the mustang pump in the center with some kind of small sump around the pick up. I hope it works.

I'm still not sure about what to do for fuel lines. I wish I still had the mustang lines to work with from the donor car. I ended up junking them with what was left of the the body.

Would like to see some pics of others fuel lines & pumps for ideas.

You can get replacement fuel line stuff from ron morris performance. He sells a kit that includes all the factory ford bundy fittings and it will connect your tank to the engine and it includes a filter.

I regards to the fuel pump, I am going to use the pump I already have mounted to the frame. I am going to mount it to the mustang hanger and install a t-fitting to the intake side for the pick-ups. This pump is longer than the stock mustang pump, so tank depth wont be an issue any more. I will be getting to this as soon as I get the gear change done and the axles reinstalled. I will be using the Walbro GSL392 pump.

 

[dozer dude]

There has to be a less expensive option for 25 feet of plastic line and a handfull of plastic fittings, he wants $160 before shipping! ouch.

$160 gets you :

25) Feet of Nylon Fuel Line, part# 9130
10) Fuel Line Mounting Brackets, part# 9157
10) Well Nuts & Screws, part# 9160
3) Duckbill fittings, 5/16" straight, part# 9137
Fuel Pump Outlet, Filter Inlet & Outlet
1) Duckbill Fitting, 1/4" straight, part# 9136
Fuel Pump Return
1) Male Springlock Fitting, Supply, part# 9144
1) Male Springlock Fitting, Return, part# 9143

 

[Tripod]

Explorer versus Mercury Mountaineer

Thanks for the previous informaiton guys...I'm going to look for a 5.0 with the GT40p and run the Mustang Fuel Injection (MAF), wiring harness, and computer (among other items mentioned in previous posts). I've found low mileage 1999 and 2000 Mercury Mountaineers at reasonable prices.

Question: Is there a difference between the 5.0 in an Explorer versus a Mountaineer (1999 or 2000)?

More help please!!!

 

[dozer dude]

Question: Is there a difference between the 5.0 in an Explorer versus a Mountaineer (1999 or 2000

I don't believe there is any difference at all, the motor should be the same as well as the electronics.

Back to fuel lines: Has anyone just used fuel pressure rated soft hose? after searching around on corral.net I heard of a product made by goodyear called "instagrip" hose that is rated for high pressures. supposed to slide over the barbs and not come off unless you cut it off.

anyone heard of it? I really don't feel like spending any money on AN stuff and the nylon fuel line and fittings are too expnsive as well IMO.

 

[rock-rod]

Thanks for the previous informaiton guys...I'm going to look for a 5.0 with the GT40p and run the Mustang Fuel Injection (MAF), wiring harness, and computer (among other items mentioned in previous posts). I've found low mileage 1999 and 2000 Mercury Mountaineers at reasonable prices.

Question: Is there a difference between the 5.0 in an Explorer versus a Mountaineer (1999 or 2000)?

More help please!!!

The explorer/mountainer motors are the same when comparing same year vehicle.

Most of the differences are based on year of production, not on vehicle application.

intro to mid '96- motors had gt40 heads and internal egr passages
mid '96 to end of production- motors had gt40ps and external egr passages.

There was also a change in the throttle body position in relation to the way the throttle lever is actuated by the throttle cable- I am not sure what year this happened, but I suspect when the change to gt40ps occured.

To determine if the motor has an external egr, look for a metal corrogated tube running to the throttle body (not sure where it originates). Internal egr will not have the tube, just the egr valve mounted to the TB adapter.

One other thing, the gt40ps use specific headers due to the angle of the spark plug. The plug angle is almost 90 degrees in relation to the head, while the gt40s have a plug angle more like 45 degrees. Most new aftermarket headers will work with the p's, just check the application. I believe ford motorsport sells ceramic coated headers that will work with the p's.

I highly suggest investing in the trick flow gt40 valve spring upgrade kit. It costs about $100 from summit and will upgrade the stock weak ass springs. The stock springs do not handle rpms at all and will float. Install a mustang cam, and upgrade to 1.7 roller rockers and you will get an easy 300 hp motor. While in there changing the cam, might as well replace the timing set too. You will need a mustang distributor, but it drops right in place of the explorer cps. If you stay with the explorer fuel rails, you may have some slight clearance issues with the mustang distributor body and D/S fuel rail- I think I just clocked mine over a little and there is enough room to set the timing just fine- 10 degrees btdc with the spout connector out. Just remember to plug the spout back in when finished.

 

[rock-rod]

I don't believe there is any difference at all, the motor should be the same as well as the electronics.

Back to fuel lines: Has anyone just used fuel pressure rated soft hose? after searching around on corral.net I heard of a product made by goodyear called "instagrip" hose that is rated for high pressures. supposed to slide over the barbs and not come off unless you cut it off.

anyone heard of it? I really don't feel like spending any money on AN stuff and the nylon fuel line and fittings are too expnsive as well IMO.

Instagrip sounds like the same stuff as Aeroquip socketless.

 

[redwrangleryj]

I have a 94 351, I know there alot of options on the wiring harness, but what about the computer.
Do I just need to grab a stock computer from that engine from a junk yard?
And speaking of junk yard, has anyone used a stock harness or should I just spend the money on somthing nice.

 

[spectra]

Was wondering when running the 435 I know to use the truck BH and flywheel but what about the harmonic balancer? Did you use the stock HO unit or go with something else?

Thanks!

 

[Brandon]

stock balancer, but not just any old flywheel, I forget exactly which ones though. I think 80+ or something like that. Mine came from a mid 80's truck.

 

[spectra]

Thanks for the info and as for flywheel it is the 164 tooth 50 oz balance I think. Those were the ones that came on the mid 80s trucks.

 

[rock-rod]

Thanks for the info and as for flywheel it is the 164 tooth 50 oz balance I think. Those were the ones that came on the mid 80s trucks.

Yes, if you are using the late model 5.0, you must use a 50 oz imbalance flywheel and balancer.

 

[TNRanger]

I used Goodyear 60PSI EFI hose on my ranger. It's held up like a champ. I did get 1 size bigger barbed fittings, take a pan of water and boil it. Then using a torch to maintain the boil stuck the ends of the fuel line over the barbs. They will NOT come off. For the engine side, I simply cut the braided stainless nylon lined fuel lnes from the frame rail and put JIC fittings on them. Used #4 AN line to connect the gap. everything works great.