Curious also

I was running bars from CPP and they just have solid/fixed mounts at the frame and axle end......it was definately binding too much. I took them off within 3 months of installation.

Glacier Diesel sells nice ladder bars with a front frame shackle.......but they are $800

 

I'm building them myself. All will be close in cost

Did your old bars effect the ride?

 

.if you look deep enough there was a gen4x thread that got into installed angle and how long etc etc to play with antisquat.. Ive never towed with my trail rig but like most trail rigs it doesnt bind and i never knew it was back there even when doing dry hops on the street and hitting some deep potholes..

I cant see a stock suspension truck binding up as long as the shackle is of adequate length.

 

I think if I just did the standard diesel traction bars with no shackle but two bars and used rubber bushings I could get away with it and it would ride fine

I'll try to search later, I should be studying for my test tomorrow right now.....

 

The CPP bars were solid for sure.......traction drastically improved and the truck did feel more solid

However, I could tell it was binding even when driving down fire lanes and hunting trails

Here are the CPP bars:

Cummins Performance Parts CPP Traction Bars for Dodge Ram Trucks

Here are the Glacier Diesel bars with the shackle:

Glacier Diesel Power - Product List

 

Here are the install pics of the CPP bars:

Axle and frame brackets:







Bars:







Installed:

 

Lazar Smith also makes some bars and mounts


Traction Bars

I am just not a fan of the solild mounts......but I am sure a shackle could be made for at the frame end

 

One Up Offroad Home

They have some good setups for axle mount bars with some flex built in.

 

OUO parts are $$$$$$$$$

 

I have the Pro Comp's. They do a good enough job. I have a big rear sway bar too, but the axle still moves enough to get me around. I did not noticed any negative ride from them either.

 

Any close up pics of the Pro Comp bars and mounts?

 

They have been on for 5-6 years. The bushings are egg shaped internally to allow some squish for articulation.

 

Looks good enough to me, I'll just make them out of sch 40 pipe for around 75 bucks

 

Thanks for the info on the Pro Comps..........I need to get something done

I kind of miss the CPP bars I had on the truck, but being that they were solid mounts with the cheap ass tractor links, it was very binding but had great traction

 

Do they need to be 12 feet long? I was thinking about the same thing, if i get on it in first and shift to 2nd it will start hopping pretty good. I was thinking about make some that attach below the axle and right in front of the leaf spring mount. Just fixed ends, no shackle, I never take the truck off road.

 

4 link and airbag it. Caddy smooth and no axle wrap

 

The longer the better, but more importantly it should mimic the angle of the rear driveshaft

I've also been told the length should be near or at the mounting flange for the rear driveshaft

 

Says who? I have heard this About links as well, and yes there are advantages to long links, but they don't out weigh the disadvantages imo.

 

I think that if the pivot point for the bars are different than the mounting flange for the rear driveshaft there will be major binding

 

That's why there is the slip in the drive shaft.

 

I think he mean the rear suspension can't cycle through the travel without binding.

Do it really need to be a mile long to be effective traction bars?

 

I like that the pro comps tie into the ubolts with the bracket.....less chance of it moving around like that just clamp around the axle tube

 

I don't think length is as important as the mounting points are. If the axles moves while the suspension cycles, the link can't inhibit that movement and needs to be set-up in a way to allow that movement to happen. A longer link will make it easier, but would probably mostly depend on how much suspension movement there is.
Travis..

 

I think the best scenario is to make the length to be same as the axle centerline to the front leaf spring mount hole and have the bar mounted reasonable parallel to the leaf spring to get the least binding?

Other way is to use what commonly done on the leaf sprung jeeps where they use "anti-wrap" bar where it have shackle up front to control the axle wrap but do not interference the articulation/ride quality? I don't know if it'll work good on diesels as I have seen heim joint bent to hell in this configuration on my friend's S-10 with only stock 4.3 V-6. However this can be reduced if the distance the heim/shackle is farther away from the rear axle to reduce the stress on them.

 

I am going to order the Pro Comps up and see how they do

The mounting brackets and bars are about $450 shipped

 

BDS also sells a kit

http://www.bds-suspension.com/instructions/122617-8.pdf

 

A little late to the party but what about this?

Antiwrap/Traction Bar Complete Kit - RuffStuff Specialties

I ordered the kit with the longer tubing when they had the 25% off sale. Will probably put it together next weekend and if it looks like it will work (for an 05 dodge dually) I will order another kit to complete the pair.

Even with the 5', 2" .25 wall and 4', 1.75" .25 wall options it was still under $200 to my door during the sale.

 

I have the Pro Comp's. They do a good enough job. I have a big rear sway bar too, but the axle still moves enough to get me around. I did not noticed any negative ride from them either.

How are the pro comp bars and mounts holding up?

Do you know the eye to eye length for your pro comp bars?