Sounds fun. Dana 60 not 50,50s suck. Even If it is the wrong place I'll be watching this

 

thanks!! i'll stay away from the 50.

 

x2 dana 60 over 50 anyday, and why your at it either a 14 bolt rear or a 70.. otherwise good build plan will be watching.

 

Diamonds with LC centers

 

This. :grinpimp:

Keep it low...

 

60's front and back? or 60 & 70? and did the F350 come with the 60 & 70? any others that may have?

 

Shoot for 38+ tire. 60's and 35s would drag all over Hell.

 

Don't the stock trucks (F350, d2500)with d60's come with 33's or 31's? I'm not doubting you on the tires, just need to understand why they need to be bigger..?? Also, I'm cool with 38"s, but will have to find something that's decent in the mud and decent on the street...truck will be probably 70/30 street to mud.

 

Yeah, but keep in mind, you posted in the mini truck forum :flipoff2: why would you want to run a near stock tire size, them big ole pumpkin chunks will be low to the ground.

If you wanted to stick with a 35, run custom width Toyota axles :garfield:

 

I'd do a 70 rear anyday over the boat anchor 14 bolt, more ground clearance and more gear choices. Also I run cooler discovery stts for a DD and I love them Offroad and on. You can get them in a 37x12.50x17 and should last way longer than boggers.

 

isn't the tundra kinda big like? i mean they come with v8`s. and the 'big v8' is one of the biggest motors ive ever seen, so shouldn't you be able to fit a 6bt in it? i mean my buddy owns a newer dodge and the motor doesn't look all that space consuming and the bodies are similar in size. i may be crazy... but you should look into the measurements on the 6bt and see if it will fit cause that'll be :smokin:

anyways, you may want to run some kind of pan hard if your absolutely stuck on running a parallel 4 link. otherwise i would atleast do \ / to the uppers. so your rear end doesn't walk side to side on you.

 

Thanks for the advice on the suspension...i really don't know a ton about the stuff.... just seems everytime I look at different 4wd builds they always have a 4 link... i might be missing something though... then on the rock crawling buggies i see a bunch of triangular 4 link set ups... I just want a good ride and something that is just a bit more flexible than stock.

As far as the truck... I'm going with the 2004-2006 model tundra.. not the new design... the new design came out in 07... the trucks I am looking at have the 4.7... the newer ones have the 5.7 and are much bigger... but with that said, the 6bt will fit in the both models... but it will be a bit of a squeeze in the trucks I am looking at... and are about 300lbs heavier than the 4bt... i just figured I would save myself some space and weight for the times I am going to have to get under the hood.... the 4bt, with a few upgrades, can put out much more power than I'm shooting for...

 

id hope he ment 5 link, most people mean that, because only a moron would run a true parallel 4 link on a lifted truck. but i agree i would look into a dual triangulated 4 link or a 3 link with panhard..

 

haha, yea but that doesn't stop them :laughing: and yea i think the dual triangulated would be best because imo the 3 link puts too much pressure on the upper link on the rear (depending on lower link orientation to the axle obviously) during axle wrap and since hes going to have a high torque motor it would have more potential for axle wrap. right? or am i :homer: with this?

 

Axle wrap with a link?

 

ok, the axle will always TRY to wrap. leafs just allow it to do so much more than links would. but the axle will TRY to wrap no matter what you do. even when you stop it with a track bar or links it will still TRY to wrap and therefor put stress on the link that has separation up or down from the center line of the axle.
hence what i said about axle wrap. lol

 

Dana 60 front 70 rear, atlas T-case, triangulated 4 link rear, parallel 4 link w/panhard front (better for mud than crawlin'), 4bt sounds good, and if your playing in the mud some kind of locker front and rear, or you'll get stuck.

Get 38s or better these just look too small!

 

Get 38s or better these just look too small!

You do know that is an RC truck right? :flipoff2:

 

The 4L60E is out.....it's not going to work behind this engine without major modifications.....so I'm back to square 1 with the trans.... Was told to look for a 47rh, 4l80, ZF, Allison or a np... But As far as the other goodies, I have been digging a bit on different brand air lockers and the new OX cable lockers... That's going to be a brand new purchase so it's back on the list but definitly not forgotten... Front and rear lockers will be in the truck before it rolls out the garage....

 

btw... i was talking about a parallel 4 link front.. wasn't sure of the rear.. maybe triangular 4 link... air bags? or 3 link and 4 link .. .i don't know... all my experience with this is only by viewing others and riding in others... i've never built any of um... I have the equipment and fab skills to do it.. just never had too...any and all advise helps me out..

 

Again like i said earlier i would recommend a 3 link front with panhard bar, should be strong enough and not give as much binding as anything else, also be able to keep it low. for the rear depending on where your gas tank is you may wanna just stay with leafs. cheap and effective.

if you look atleast on mini trucks most guys with a rear 4 link setup dont have the stock tank in the stock location, links hit it.

 

Gotcha fine brother. If rear leafs are the way to go, I'm all about it...but I can fab up a tank, any shape or size, pretty easily also... So whichever route you guys think is my best bet...??? I just don't want to put leafs on and wish I would have done different ya know... Whichever will give the better ride, be a little mean offroad and be able to handle pulling a bay boat and maybe a small camper.

 

Closest thing I could find.

 

Cool build, cant wait to see this. I just dumped a 6bt into a seirra crew
Id go with a 47rh :smokin:

 

I was recommended the 47rh and the 4L80E more than others... ill see what i can find.... if i find both relativly easy, it will come down to which is easier to work on, availablility of parts, and upgradability... My original thoughts going into this project was the allison..but I have only been recomended that transmission by one person... I'm not sure if it's because it's a beast to mess with or what.. but it seems that for this project, everyone thinks those two i listed above are the route to take.

 

I assume he means traction bar. This is why I hate the term "track bar". It's a panhard bar, the man was smart enough to come up with it, so give him some credit and call it by its proper name.

 

dont bother with a 50 front, they are 8x170 bolt pattern among other issues, go 60 front, and Id be looking for a 14b or d80 before the d70.

I'm settled on a 60 front... was told the 70 would be a better choice than the 14b for the rear.... haven't heard anything about the d80...??? what benefits do you think it will have over the 70?

241dHd, not dLd, or 271

I think I'm pretty settled on the 241... have had that recommended on quite a few occasions when I listed a bunch of different ones!!

trans, Id be very tempted to use a 48re, stay away from any adapters for the whole drivetrain.

I think i'm down to 3 trannys... 47rh, 4L80E, and allison 1000.. still haven't made a decision though.. gonna do some more research on all three

And final thought, using an 04+truck, Id recommend looking into the legal/emissions issues of putting in the older injection engine. While you may not have emissions testing, you'll never be able to sell a truck that cannot be registered in emissions controlled counties. And should you get emissions, you now have a lawn ornament.

at the moment, I'm not concerned with the emissions... but if it came down to it in years to come, I could either try to figure out how to make it comply oooooorrrrrr just go to the sky with it and play in the mud!!! or keep it low put on some Iroks and climb something with it..

 

Where in So. Louisiana are you? I spent almost a week down in Broussard/Lafayette last fall. :smokin:

It's FLAAAATTT, but pretty--and lots of great people. :smokin:

 

I'm from Lafitte, LA... right where this hurricane is coming.... so i got me a strap and a good oak tree and a jar of some clear stuff to sip on while I watch the show :grinpimp: Lafitte is about 2 hours (maybe 120-130 miles) ESE of Lafayette... bayou country!!

 

I run a Chevrolet TH700R4 behind my 4BT. Mine is not quite as built as you are talking about, but I am running about 230HP and 520 Lb.-Ft. of torque with no problems.

A lot of people talk trash about this tranny, but if you have someone to build it that knows what they are doing, then it will do fine behind your engine. Just make certain that you tell them the build specs of the engine. The reason that I went with the 700R4 was because it required ZERO electronics and had a low first gear as well as an overdrive gear. Just make certain that TV cable is adjusted correctly.

If you get a 4BT with the Chevrolet bellhousing adapter on it, then the only thing that you need to do is to have a 700R4 torque converter built with the TH400 bolt pattern. Also, be certain to get a 700R4 with the heavy duty K case that came on Suburbans and 3/4 and one ton trucks.

Good luck with your build.

 

I run a Chevrolet TH700R4 behind my 4BT. Mine is not quite as built as you are talking about, but I am running about 230HP and 520 Lb.-Ft. of torque with no problems.

A lot of people talk trash about this tranny, but if you have someone to build it that knows what they are doing, then it will do fine behind your engine. Just make certain that you tell them the build specs of the engine. The reason that I went with the 700R4 was because it required ZERO electronics and had a low first gear as well as an overdrive gear. Just make certain that TV cable is adjusted correctly.

If you get a 4BT with the Chevrolet bellhousing adapter on it, then the only thing that you need to do is to have a 700R4 torque converter built with the TH400 bolt pattern. Also, be certain to get a 700R4 with the heavy duty K case that came on Suburbans and 3/4 and one ton trucks.

Good luck with your build.

Thanks for the advice!! Wasn't the 700r4 the same as the 4L60? just a previous model?

 

I spoke with a guy at Monster transmissions today about the 4l60e... I had emailed them a couple days ago and they got back in touch today... He told me that the 4l60e/700r4 can handle a modded 4bt...but not without a really good rebuild with some mods.. he says he has done a few for diesels... but he also told me that if i'm not stuck on the 4l60, to step up to a 4l80 or another that is capable with a stock rebuild for the application i am looking for... basically, he was saying leave the 4L60 upgrades to the pro's!!! ha ha... I think I'll take his, and others advice, and stick with something a little bit more big boned... thanks though!!

 

After doing some thinking and talking with a few people... it's going to be a doubler NP241/NP241 for the Tcase... D60 front and D70 rear...

I was really wanting to buy a junker tranny and rebuild it myself, but after doing some digging on that....i think I am going to back off on building the transmission myself.... I will have my hands full with the doubler and rebuild on the 4bt.. so I'll let Monster handle the tranny for me.. (unless you guys think there is a better route than using Monster transmissions?) but thats where I stand....

At the moment I am in Mobile, Al running from the hurricane... It hit right over my house.... so I'm expecting some damage when I get back... hopefully it's not to bad... anyhow... i'll keep yall posted.

 

Project is on hold....lost ma job and trying to wrap up some metal fab jobs then going to move....hopefully..