[Back Woods]

It has billet compressor wheels in the stock turbo frames.

 

[Beat95YJ]

It has billet compressor wheels in the stock turbo frames.

I'm flat amazed that doesn't effect warranty. On my old 6.0, they bitched about my air filter.

 

[[486]]

well obviously you don't tell them that your engine shit pistons out the bottom after you plugged in your magic tuning box of electrical go-fast pixies
in the world of fleecing companies for all (and more than) their warranties are worth, such things are to be downplayed. Besides, dealership techs often don't notice subtle things if not prompted.

 

[Back Woods]

The truck did have an SCT when we got it at 30k miles. Removed it though because the transmission couldn't handle any more when we were towing. When it was first replaced the Ford tech pointed out the billet compressors, we never knew about them. After it was put back together we thought they probably reflashed it because we had told them it was tuned when we bought it. From then on we just ran it and changed the oil every 5k.

 

[Back Woods]

On another note we had the trailer towed about 130miles home, fully loaded. On the freeway they showed up with a roll back and grabbed the 450. Then they showed up with a v10 dually 350 super duty. It may have been a 2v 4r100 truck at that. I have a new respect for those trucks. Sumbitch yanked that trailer down the freeway, albeit 45mph up any grade. A few grades were a 1/2 mile plus and had his hazards on before half way up. Would have loved to ride along and hear that v10 rappin 5500rpm for 2 hours.

 

[MT4Runner]

Swap an 8.3 into the SooperDooty!!!

 

[Back Woods]

The dealer is claiming 2 bad injectors but the blow by out of the oil fill is enough to paint the hood at idle. They are going to perform a compression test and run a bore scope to see what is going on.

 

[nevrenufhp]

The dealer is claiming 2 bad injectors but the blow by out of the oil fill is enough to paint the hood at idle. They are going to perform a compression test and run a bore scope to see what is going on.

Definitely time to swap to a Cummins 8.3, a DT466, or even a Ford 6.6.
Plenty of room!:grinpimp:

 

[mike_belben]

Would going back to a non-emissions compliant engine be legal in his jurisdiction?

 

[Back Woods]

Well it's been about 5 months/4000miles since the truck has been road worthy. For the moment it is our main tow rig. Anyways, figured I would go over the issues/bugs we had to work out from the shakedown until now.

Loose transmission line (fixed, loose fitting)
Bad alternator (fixed)
Bad CAC clamp (fixed)
Turbo oil feed leak (fixed)
Air Compressor pedestal leak (not fixed)
(1.5 gallons of oil leaked between the two, oil feed was a bad leak)
Coolant leaks around hose clamps (fixed, lost 1.5 gallons, usually when parked)
Power steering leak (fixed, loose clamp)
Blown drive tire (fixed)
Bad v-belts (fixed, had the wrong size)
Blinker switch (fixed)
Compressor govenor line (fixed)
Faulty gauges (not fixes)

These are all the problems encountered so far. The truck has been put through the paces. Transmission hit 260+ TC temp through the mountains and the fluid is still fresh with no apparent burning. I highly recommend the Mt643 4.33 gear combo.

 

[mwilliamshs]

...I highly recommend the Mt643 4.33 gear combo.

That recommendation would be more meaningful with tire size included.

 

[Back Woods]

About waist high size.

 

[mike_belben]

Look like 11R22.5 to me

 

[Back Woods]

Yeah, they are 11r22.5, measure around 42" tall. Top speed is around 75-76mph, it likes to cruise at around 65-70mph though. Not sure peak rpm but fairly certain it is between 2900-3000rpm. The truck could get by 4.11/3.73 gears no problem but would be more likely to speed and 0-45mph would suffer a bit. Which leads me to the turbo. With the setup in the above picture the truck can gain speed on almost all grades, especially at 25-40mph. With the camper and trailer fully loaded it only looses speed in the mountains, often times not enough to drop a gear. The 58mm/19cm Hx40 is a great turbo for these motors. Almost good enough to hold off swapping the 62mm h2d in for now. Peak boost is still 25psi and EGTs peak around 1150 fully loaded WOT for a mile or so. This may sound a little corny but, the hx40 is so loud at idle that I don't really want to give it up. I am sure the h2d is loud too, but the truck can be parked at a truck stop and while you are in taking a shit you can hear the turbo whistling, haha.

Leads me to the transmission next. Two coolers, one water-oil, one air-oil. Some of you may remember the China water-oil cooler I picked up and adapted. So far so good with this unit, no leaks etc and seems to be efficient. Peak temp has been 260 before the coolers, need to get a pan gauge to see how much cooling is happening. 90% UTF and 10% ATF is a good mix, fluid has a light red color. No burning smell or discoloration in the fluid, and no consumption. If anyone is interested in this cooler setup let me know, I have all the part numbers.

 

[mwilliamshs]

Yeah, they are 11r22.5, measure around 42" tall. Top speed is around 75-76mph, it likes to cruise at around 65-70mph though. Not sure peak rpm but fairly certain it is between 2900-3000rpm...

Sounds about right. 4.33 r&p, 1:1 4th gear, 42" tires, 75 mph = 2,600 and 65 mph = 2,250 rpm.

3.73s would bring 75 down to 2,240 and 65 to 1,940 rpm. Probably too low to cruise with the TCC locked. Doubt that ratio is common if even available in a chunk the size of yours.

Does your TCC lockup in 4th only or 3 & 4?

Glad that cooler setup is working so well. Autos can be worrisome without proper cooling.

 

[Back Woods]

Lock up in 3rd and 4th gear, the 643 is a pretty nice transmission.

 

[lurchseesu]

I know RB is gone now, but it would have been interesting to see how his 643 would be with that 3.54 rear end. Not sure what kind of loads he really pulled with his, but that whole setup seemed like it could work really well with as much power as his 8.3 had.

 

[Back Woods]

I would also be interested in the results. The 4.33 gear has outstanding acceleration that would probably be lost a bit with a 3.54, but it is hard to say. Went for a 400 mile trip this weekend with the setup a couple posts above and 2 horses. Ran it basically wide open the whole way. It ran fast enough to pass semis and go with the flow of speeders. Got an estimate on fuel consumption and mileage and landed right around 8mpg. Not bad considering most of it was top speed WOT. At the end of a 4 hour trip I was able to put the back of my hand on the transmission air-oil cooler and hold it there with out burning. Peak TC temps were about 220 on this trip.


Have also decided that the truck needs an exhaust brake. Want to build something that can't be activated if the throttle is open so no accidental engagement happens. Thinking a switch on the IP to tell when the throttle is closed. Mount a toggle that arms the brake in the dash and then run to my shifter (Hurst pistol grip with little red button on the top) to activate the brake. PAC brake says the 7.8 cab handle 45psi back pressure from a brake and the mt643 can handle it. Found this unit on eBay pretty cheap. Looks to be a 3" but will probably flow plenty for my rig. Weld some 4" ends on it, chamfer the inside lip to 3.5" and mount it with band clamps half way down the down pipe. Decided to keep the Hx40 for a while, really no complaints about it and the truck pulls plenty hard enough. No worries about anything running it right to the floor. No reason to mess with a good setup at this point. The H2D is in the barn waiting to get its chance.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/IVECO-Exhaust...International-DT530-HT530E-M939-FMTV-MRAP-Military-C4F-/252341125300?nav=SEARCH

 

[mike_belben]

It would be a little more straightforward to use air operated controls instead of converting electrical to mechanical via a dc solenoid valve. I mean its simple but the valve is a fairly expensive and adds a mode of failure.


A clippard MJTV-3 pneumatic toggle switch to arm the circuit, fed into a pesto or other brand roller style air valve on the throttle would be the failsafe. You flip on the toggle to engage brake, and it will not turn on, or will turn off, should the throttle be open.

Ebay should have plenty of this stuff and there will be no fuses, no wires, no solenoids. Just air.

It might actually work pretty nice that way. With toggle armed, youd pulse the ex brake on and off simply by rolling in and out of the throttle. Thats how i always toggled the lockup on my dodge convertor for engine braking. Drop to third and let off throttle to coast. Touch just a hair to lock TCC and braahhhhhhhhpppp down a few mph at a time. It was helpful to let the rotors and calipers shed some heat on long grades with crappy dodge brakes, without accidentally picking up speed.

 

[Back Woods]

Built a 4" exhaust brake today. Uses 1/2" brass plugs that are drilled out for bushings. It is super smooth, still need to build limiting brackets and a mount for an air RAM.