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I'm a dick. That's not a secret. But think about this...

If you pay a mechanic to rebuild something and it fails, will you buy his excuse of "the c-clip is the culprit"? :homer: I wouldn't.

I'm just as hard on myself as I am on anybody else. When I screw up I don't blame parts or tools. 95% of the time I have problems, it's because I was hurrying.

I'm sorry for your setback. I'm sure you'll get it going again, stronger than ever.
 
Discussion starter · #1,204 · (Edited)
Yeah not really sure, that is what I found tearing into it. The oil seal was torn up pretty bad and appears that it got wedged inside the chra. The past turbos I have taken apart the oil seal "clicks" into place. This was no different. Still need to tear the guts out and look at the thrust. Bearings were still good. Did a little looking around and eBay itself has a link about buyer beware China rebuild kits, this was under $50. When I rebuilt the Garrett in my 7.3 I used genuine Garrett parts (over $100) and have had no issues. Should have sprung for a holset rebuild but didn't. The #1 reason for failure may be a mystery but something didn't go right. Spun great and had no play when I put it in the truck.

Anyways, just going to buy new turbos from now on. Could have left me stranded in BFE and needed a tow, so I got lucky there.

The 366 should be here soon and I have a feeling it's going to be a ripper.


A little read.

http://www.ebay.com/gds/BEWARE-of-the-DIY-Turbo-Rebuild-Kit-myth-/10000000002567810/g.html
 
Yeah not really sure, that is what I found tearing into it. The oil seal was torn up pretty bad and appears that it got wedged inside the chra.
Happens when the clearances aren't wide enough. Just like piston rings, both the end gap and the clearance in the groove.

Probably stuck and then the inertia of the compressor wheel unscrewed the nut.
 
Discussion starter · #1,206 · (Edited)
Anyways.

Ended up getting an "off brand" "ebay" s366. Didnt have the money to drop $600 on a name brand BW. The company Industrial Turbos has a bunch of S300 series turbos available, even billet models, etc. Was unable to find any failure stories about them and most of the failures seem to be with the ricers and garrett knockoffs. I know it is a bit of a gamble but it is one Im willing to take at this moment. 11mm shaft should hold up. :laughing:

▄▀▄▀ S366 S300SX3 Turbo Charger 66mm 91 4mm 91 A R T4 Twin Scroll 177275 | eBay


:laughing::laughing: Fuck it. Made in China anyways.
http://www.prnewswire.com/news-rele...ews-releases/borgwarner-builds-5-millionth-turbocharger-in-china-300042014.html
 
They do seem to do just fine, especially considering the abuse people put them through.

One thing to watch out for is erosion on the turbine wheel, gasoline engines can get away with shit metal turbines for a long time because there's no oxygen in the exhaust, where on a diesel there is a lot of oxygen, so with the high temperature a lesser alloy will be eaten away.
 
Discussion starter · #1,208 · (Edited)
I'll keep an eye on that for sure. The 366 will fit great without the adapter I made for the H2D too. A little let down about the H2D since it seemed like it would be a nice towing turbo. I have a feeling the 366 will take better advantage of the tuned pump. Spool time will be faster also.

Here is a 366 on a 466, sounds good.

https://youtu.be/H95AMcPY7h0
 
Discussion starter · #1,209 ·
Got the ramp setup finished. Built a wood platform with hinged ramps in the service bed. Ended up using ratchet straps to the camper eye hooks to keep the ramps in place. The Gator fits real good and have plenty of room for the gooseneck. The frame rails on the Gator drag a little bit on the flat bed but not enough to hang it up. Waiting on the turbo to get it back going. Got a few little odds and ends to tie up also.

Image
 
Discussion starter · #1,214 ·
Got the turbo all hooked up and went for a ride.

Specs on the S366 are, 66mm extended tip compressor, clipped wheel turbine and .91 AR T4 exhaust housing. There is a lot of talk across the internets about putting one of these turbos on a medium duty motor but could only ever find one account of someone doing it.

Here are the stats after a run around town.

First things first, this turbo is mellow in tone compared to the Holsets. Pretty quiet overall, the exhaust note is pretty subtle and has a nice compressor whistle.

Spool up time...This turbos spools pretty damn quick, quick enough to say it probably would do pretty good with a manual transmission.

Boost. Not very high, lowest of all the turbos I have ran so far. WOT is about 20-21psi until it gets close to defuel/65mph+ it will climb to 24-25psi. The power is there though, no doubt. EGTs peak at around 1100 degrees.

Definitely a nice turbo, power comes in smooth and fast, doesnt make a whole lot of noise or boost but is flowing a good amount of air.
 
clipped wheel turbine.
Wish you'd said something sooner, that's a bandaid fix for insufficient wastegate flow that takes a hit out of turbine efficiency. In other words, real deal honda ricer type stuff. Not really applicable to diesels, as boost creep doesn't hurt anything, not to mention that you aren't running a wastegate.

Good to hear on the lower EGTs and boost numbers though, means it's moving more air, both on the compressor and turbine side. More fuel to get your boost back. :p

ETA: I liked the brush guard. c:
 
Discussion starter · #1,217 ·
Think it is the SXE with the full blade turbine, more than I wanted to spend. Going to pull around my trailer a bit to put some load on everything. The transmission tank was a bust (wants to blow out of the weak cap) so I took it off for now.
 
What are you running for boost right now?
A totally stock 210hp dt466 with t4oe with way to big of an exhaust housing. Pump is still at stock settings. I make around 10psi with a peak of 14 when climbing the hill in TN. My EGTs are currently OK but I scrub serious speed on any incline with my foot to the floor and it adds many hours to my cross country trips.

The motor is in idiot proof mode. Brick on the accelerator and away any moron will go. Before next big trip I have to put on a better turbo, after cooler, and turn up the pump. As it sits now my dual pyros did not read much over 1000f on the climb in TN. I have plenty of room with a better turbo, cooling, and more fuel before I get worried.

I could mess with the pump before hand and likely get some more out of it but this turbo is a known choking point so it will just need to go. I think 300-350hp should put me where I would like to be. I have been working on other things on it lately. Speaking of, I should update my thread.
 
Discussion starter · #1,220 ·
Ive never ran the stock turbo so I have no reference on that end. Id leave the pump alone though until you can move more air. After running the Hx40, H2D, and now the S366 I would recommend the S366. The Hx40 is a good option but it leaves more on the table as far as fuel. This is based off a max EGT of 1100 degree. The 40 will pick you up a lot of power but in a side by side comparison the S366 is the way to go. The H2D/HX50 is physically bigger than the 40/366 and can be tough to fit in a tight area. It also spools slower than the other two. A lot of talk on these forums about turbo swaps and Ive read them until I was blue in the face.

The S366/.91 is a great match on these motors. With the pump maxed my F700 flat out moves, and spools instantly!
 
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