I run a 18"-ish x 22"-ish aluminum double pass radiator with a custom fabbed aluminum shroud with a Taurus fan running on high. I had to hack a few fins out of the Taurus fan to get it to fit, it is basically notched to fit over the water pump snout. I don't use a t-stat but instead a restrictor plate in the water neck. I also got rid of the inner fender by making my own flat fenders from tube. This allows the hot air to escape from under the hood easier.

Rarely gets over 200 crawling, it usually runs around 180-190. I fought with heating problems for a few years and finally got something right with my setup.

 

I've found one of the key's is keeping under hood temps down. Even with a nice aluminum radiator and large fan mine would get hot sometimes so I installed some Genright louvers. Made a big difference for me since the motor is so crammed in there that the air from the fan had nowhere to escape to.

You can sort of see them here:

 

I thought about putting some louvers in my inner fenders, just like an MB. Whats been stopping me is the fact that I go through so much mud, and my boggers throw ALOT. Im worried that the mud will just pack full the louvers.

Louvered hood makes sense, and is most likely what I have to do to get the heat out. I know a guy who has them on his TJ, they look "OK" on there. I really didn't want to cut my hood though, its stilll a nice peice.

I gutted the original rad. support out of my grill allready, I am at the point now where I can not cut away anymore and still have the radiator fit between the headlight buckets(I also cut about 1.5" off the back of the buckets) Any more trimming will require quite a bit of sheet metal fab.

 

I run a 185 degree thermostat, short water pump, steel fan and an electric pusher fan between the grill and rad that I control with a switch. I do not know the exact dimensions of the rad but it is a 3 core dimple tube cross flow that fits between the headlight buckets. ( '73 headlight buckets). I have the short fenders so room is tight, but I never go over 200 on the trail.

 

I run no inner fenders, cut out, a 4row hi efficency cross flow, with an alluminum shroud 3/4depth, an a 16in slim spal puller straight blade, on a 383 420hp, sbc , 195 thermostat, an run cool out on the trails an dunes,

 

I bought some vents today, and plan to install them tomorrow. I also went to the junkyard and found a "taurus" fan. I also found the "hard to find Mark 8" fan. It is about an inch thinner, and pushes more air supposedly. Both still way to thick to fit my app.

I was looking at my fathers 5 today and he has a TON more space than I do. He is running a 283 with the stock chevy 2 row rad that came with it, and a cheap off the shelf fan. He never has overheating problems:shaking: He is also running a 7 grill.

His 283 has a short water pump, my 350 has a tall one. I measured an inch difference in height between the two. Does anyone know if the pumps are interchangeable???

It looks like i will be gutting whats left of my stock rad. support to make this fan work.

 

Does anyone know if the pumps are interchangeable???

Yes they are but you will need new brackets to get the alternator and p/s pump lined up right. The short pump uses different accessory brackets than the long one.

 

ive had problems where the water was circulating to fast through the system and not allowing the radiator enough time for the air to cool it off, ive actually had to hook up heater cores and kink the lines to slow the water down and give it time for the air to cool , just a thought

 

Cross flow / Double pass 19"x22" radiator
Taurus fan with Dakota Digital Fan controller.
Stock LY6 termostat.
Front fender cutted to make good air circulation.
Never gets higher than 210, no matter what I´m doing, even driving at the huge dunes of the Atacama Desert.

 

I run a 19" x 25" aluminum in a Commando. With that being said I have a 5.7 tbi with serpentine, and got tired of the normal overheating woes. So with that being said I moved the radiator till it would clear the Mark 8 fan and stretched the hood. I run no inner fenders and run a becool switch that turns the fan on at 195*-off at 165* and now run on the freeway uphill loaded in 105* heat and it runs around 210* in that situation and 195* everywhere else. The Mark 8 moves more air than the Taurus and it can be trimmed to 4.5" depth. I am not saying to butch your hood, just if you can fit the Mark 8 fan you will be happy. Mark

 

15 yrs of experminting came to this. ron davis rad. notched for the lites, spal fans, 42 grill cause its bigger, lower winch, edelbrock pump, 195 stat, no inner fenders to block air flow, trans cooler in back under the body with is own fan, power steering cooler under the rad. but not hooked to it so no added heat. 400hp+ sbc/700r4
it runs 100* half the year here an every trip to the mountains is a 3000' climb. it runs on the edge a lot but i got no real complaints.
when i built this i cut the entire fire wall out, installed everything to fit rite then rebuilt the fire wall to fit

 

I spent a few hours yesterday tearin on my jeep trying to get the taurus fan to fit. No dice. I did gain enough room to run a clutch fan, so it wasn't a totally wasted day. If I do the short water pump swap I will be able to run the elec. fan with no issues..

well I can't say NO issues, I gutted too much out of the grill. Now My headlights won't clear the rad. :homer: Not that I really need headlights on this jeep

I have both a taurus fan AND a mark 8 fan. Can the mark 8 fan be cut shorter than the taurus fan?

 

if you have to cut holes in the hood, check the hot rod people to see if anyone punch's louvers in your area. they look a lot nicer than the addons. same with the fenderwells. if their faceing the rite direction mud only comes in when spinning in reverse. you can get 2,3,0r 4 in. and in a willys hood you can get 40 of them. had them in one of my hoods till i rolled it.:shaking:

 

I use to have an overheating problem too. I made a custom shroud and use a solid steel 17" fan. 180 deg thermostat, short water pump and a 19x19 aluminum crossflow radiator, tranny cooler with dedicated fan away from the radiator. With this combo AND inner fenders i'd run 210-220 on a 90 degree day running trails. I pulled the inner fenders out and runs 180-200. Getting the heat out from under the hood makes a huge difference.

Short water pump and Taurus fan will fix your problem for sure but something i accidently discovered was recirculating hot air through the radiator. I had a gap between my radiator and grill. With the hood shut the fan would pull through the radiator, hit the hood and blow back forward down in front of the radiator and be pulled back through. Made a filler panel and it made a huge difference when idling along.

the evolution of fixing my overheating starts near the bottom of page 4: http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=868450&page=4

 

I havent actually wheeled my junk yet:shaking: but at idle she climbs to 200 pretty fast with an electric pusher fan from, where ever I got it 100 years back. Im planning on swiching to the tarus fan, but the mk8 is definatly somthing im going to look into. I have an aluminum radiator from howle, and during this build I cut in some "heat dumps", and I have cowle induction at the rear of the hood. Louvers are not A real good idea here in the PNwet

 

Found this picture awhile ago. Taurus on the right Mark viii on the left. Mark

 

Mark you always have good input Its good to see you around

 

Thanks, You too. Mark

 

I just installed the Taurus fan on my jeep today. Man is it ever close, only about 1/8" between the water pump hub and the fan motor. Good thing the taurus fan has an offset motor.

I wired it in to a 3 position switch using a diagram i found here on the forum. This fan draws alot of current! I have a digital volt gauge in my jeep, it typically reads 13.8v at idle. With the fan in Low speed the voltage drops to 11.6v, in high is drops to about 11.1v I think this could be a problem.

I haven't trail tested this yet, but I can tell you it throws ALOT of air. I held a blue shop towel infront of my grill and it pulled it out of my hand.

 

willys cooling problem?

i have a 47 pickup,big block olds turbo400,9in ford.i run an aluminum 2 row with pusher fan in front and the flatest angled mech fan in front.180 degree stat.my truck on the hottest days never gets over 210.here are some tips.get the heat out of the engine bay,switch to a remote oil filter ,run an oil cooler and a trans cooler.my rad.is only 22x19.i cut out my inner wells just to let out the header heat alone.hope this helps

 

I took my jeep out this past weekend. With the taurus fan on low the engine temp stayed right at 210-220. after a some high rpms in a bog it climbed to 230-240 so I flipped my toggle switch to high. Then oddly enough the temp just started to climb FAST. So I flipped it back to low speed and with in minutes it was back down to normal operating temp.

When I got back home I popped the hood to access the situation. The 30amp inline buss fuse I had wired in to the high relay blew. It got so hot that the fuse housing welded itself together. I guess some re-wiring is in order.

 

Just my 2 cents worth, I run a Derale 16" fan, 180 thermostat, 2 row aluminum radiator, and it still like to overheat.
So I did the hood louvers or however you spell it, and DEI wrapped my exhaust manifolds, and sealed them with DEI high temp header paint. Wrapping the exhaust made the biggest differnace of all no shit, made night and day differance.
Not a single issue now evan sitting in traffic here in Charleston SC when it 105* out.

Probably could have done with the louvers.

 

I have a 19 x 22 griffin cross flow 2 pass 1" tubes Volvo fan. I was having over heating and it turned out to be the 195*( Failsafe )thermostat. I took it out and it wouldn't even get to 180* if driving (winter in Phoenix) should be like the rest the countries summers :evil: Anyway on the trail with a group of lots of start and stop waiting it never even got to 150*. i put the 180* Stant thermostat in and it comes right up to temp at 180. I ran on the highway for about an hour at 3000 rpm and it came up to 200* I have not pulled any substantial mountain hills in the summer here yet but will update when that happens.

 

Just an idea but have you thought about your fuel mixture. You may want to make sure your not running lean as a sanity check. Secondly have you thought about running an additional heater core to pull a little heat off the engine as well. I remember a time when I was riding down the road and we were overheating. We just kicked the heater on and it really helped the situation. Just a little wild thought.

 

no heater. If I have a problem in the summer i'll run a remote oil cooler.