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YJ-based, "go-fast" Juggy build

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834K views 1.7K replies 387 participants last post by  connor0770  
#1 · (Edited)
Earlier this year, it started to become obvious that my current rig had somewhat reached the ceiling as far as upgrades went. Indeed my rig really worked well for me all year, and there were no glaring problems that needed to be addressed. It just worked, in rock sand mud trails etc - so, it is kind of "done" for now (crazy as that sounds).

This thread, near the end, has many pictures of it and its wild engine:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=614289&page=24&highlight=400hp+pump+gas

I had back-halved it, and added many go-fast components in 2008 in an attempt at the whole KOH thing. Well for various reasons that did not pan out for me, BUT it gave me all year to come up with ideas and some better direction for what MY personal version of the ideal racing buggy would consist of. I had already built a new Jeep stroker engine in anticipation of building a racing buggy, here is the thread where I go through that process:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=784954&highlight=jeep+stroker

So about 4 months ago I started gathering parts and planning for a buggy build (who needs money, can't take it with you right?) - things progressed, and here we are. Yesterday I put my beloved Heep in storage for a couple months, and last night I cleaned and organized my home shop in anticipation of this new project:

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Today I drove 250 miles to the big city to see my good buddy "xtremeXJ94" and grab my "core" for the buggy. When his XJ is in one piece, it is one mighty machine. Nice guy that he is - he already had the YJ mostly stripped and ready for final disassembly:

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My plan is to use the critical dimensions of the YJ as a base for the new buggy. In the end the buggy needs to fit me and a passenger comfortably - and also LOOK like a YJ. I'm personally not a big fan of buggies that don't resemble some type of passenger vehicle. I figure that if I incorporate a YJ grill, hood and front tub - it probably will resemble a YJ when I am done. Additionally, for racing, I need a firewall + floor + cowl + hood. Well this beautiful YJ already had all that stuff from the factory :idea:

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and here is the heart of the new rig, *very* humble beginnings:

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I don't have any Autocad skills or possess tubing software, (I can barely work the handsfree bluetooth in my pickup) so the plans for the buggy are all on paper (I know, how archaic). Here is the "final" rough sketch of the rig, I have many more detail drawings to work from - but this one is a good reference for now. It's my vision at this point:

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**I think as this project progresses you guys will see some stuff that hasn't been covered in the hardcore Jeep forum to date. In fact, I'm quite sure of it. Stay tuned.
 
#11 ·
Thanks for the props guys, I had a good day on this thing.

After taking the carcass down to the truck wash and steaming it out, I brought it to it's final resting place for the next few months. It doesn't look like much sitting there in this picture, but this is the finished ride height, 21" to the bottom of the frame rails. It's definitely going to be a bit of a belly dragger, but thats why god created nylatron GSM:

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Before starting, I spent some time grinding out and re-welding the horrible factory engine mount welds on the frame. I also added a 1/8" plate "landing pad" for my side tubes:

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Next I finished mounting my tires and rims. For this rig I went with Pitbull Rockers :smokin: in 42" flavor, wrapped around a set of 17" Allied Rock-a-thons. I've had really good luck with Allied rims in the past, and they are actually no heavier than the various bling cast aluminum offerings. This picture shows the approximate relationship between the front tires and the tub for the finished rig. This rig will be built to a 110" wheelbase, the front WMS will be 69" and the rear WMS will be 65":

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Since the entire chassis will tie into the side bars, it was the logical place to start building. Here is the mark...

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Some people call this boat-siding, in this case "high clearance corrosion removal" might also be pertinent. I'm happy to get rid of all the cancer:

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Before calling it quits, I laid in the first bit of tubing. The chassis uprights will all tie off of these:

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** One of the goals is to keep many of the dimensions similar to my black YJ, as far as the position of the driver relative to the tires . Hopefully this makes both the rigs feel similar to drive, and will lessen my learning curve on driving the new ride...
 
R
#12 ·
Looks like a hell of a start. Subscribed!
 
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#17 ·
Looks like great day of progress Corey. Maybe next time you're in town we can try and get my garage as clean as yours.:grinpimp:
 
#19 · (Edited)
It's a little trick I've been doing for a while, helps the rear tire slip around tight obstacles - basically it's an aid in keeping the rear tires from getting hung up when cutting hard around an obstacle. The rear end is being scratch-built right now, so I can choose my WMS.
 
#24 ·
Garret and the boys over at Poly Performance are giving me the hook up on some Fox shocks for this rig. I should just get my paychecks sent over there, to eliminate a few steps in the flow of cash :homer: Seriously - the guys over there know their stuff, and know it well. I'm in good hands for shocks and springs.

The front end will run 14" travel 2.5" Fox reservoir coilover shocks, set at 7 up and 7 down *neutral*, running triple rate hardware. Fox air bumps will keep everything under control at speed.

In the rear a set of 14" travel 2.5" FOA reservoir shocks will dampen a set of 14" travel 2.0" Fox coilovers set up as "coil carriers" (30/30 tuning). A Currie anti-rock bar out back will fight the body-roll tendencies and keep the tires planted. The rear will be set the same way as the front, 7 up and 7 down.
 
#29 · (Edited)
I'm not sure why you guys are shocked I did not go with ORI struts. I don't know anything about them except they look like huge airshocks and are very very expensive.

One of the key concepts I started with when I began planning this rig was to ensure I used parts and techniques in fabricating that had worked well for me, or for the guys I regularly wheel with, in the past. The whole "key" to this rig was to keep it simple, tough, and reliable.

I've had great luck with Fox, and the guys at Poly Performance are amazing to deal with when I have any tuning or set-up questions. My buddy Bill also keeps all the various Fox valve shims sizes in stock.

I'm sure ORI makes a great strut, but I'll drive faster if I trust my parts.
 
#30 ·
Bitchin build!


Those ORI's are no where near as expensive as you think (the ST's anyways).
They are the same price as a set of c/o's. You can actually save money by running those! No need for a sway bar or bump stops!:smokin: Blacksheep10 sells them.
 
#31 · (Edited)
What he said.
I never like trusting the gas idea (air bags included), springs won't let you down if you loose a seal. I like the idea of being able to tune them with out messing with spring rates but that's not what sold me.It's the combination, bump stop , no sway bar hassle and the reviews are looking good.The jury is still out but it's looking like they will be in my next stage if they hold up.

But hey, if works for you don't fix it.

Also if your a "go fast" type of guy,it's looking like the DP units take out that body roll,that's gotta be nice! If it's just the price you should at least consider it a viable option.
 
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