THE BLEEDER SCREW HAS A TAPPERED SEAT THAT SEAL'S IT. CHECK FOR CRAP IN THERE OR THE BLEEDER SCREW. NEVER LOC LITE THE DAMN THREAD'S.... AND LOC LITE DRIES WHEN THERE IS A LACK OF O2 NOT HEAT :shaking:

 

lets see, already stated that I knew about the tapered seat doing the sealing. Though worded differently. Hmmmm, never said I was going to loctite them in. I was thinking of allowing the loctite to dry before install. Big difference. I'm refering about when bleeding and using a tube to collect the fluid the threads are very loose and leaking at the same time. I've seen new bleeders with the sealant already on in the package. Just trying to not buy new ones and save a trip too. Thanks captain obvious!:flipoff2:

 

you are fucking dumb amazing you have made it this far in life :shaking:

guess you should reread your post dumb ass :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

 

http://65.213.72.112/tds5/docs/242-EN.PDF

look it up yourself asslick. Direct from loctite. Cure time is sped up when temp reaches 100 degrees. Dumbass.

 

I always use brake caliper lube (sil-glyed) on the threads to seal them. Helps alot.

 

uh, bleeding brakes usually creates a little mess, even whith the hose on the bleeder. whats wrong with you? do you have obsessive-compulsive disorder? how can you go off-road whith all that dirt and mud? :laughing:

 

OCD.....yeah, probably. The front calipers are reman and the threads are VERY loose. Kinda worried about eventually stripping them before the taper seals. Just picked up some permatex thread seal. Says it's good for hydraulic
apps too. Going to do the same thing as before. Apply to all but lower 2 threads on a clean/dry bleeder then let it dry. Then install and let it fill any gaps.

 

I guess it might help if your parts are junk...

Bleeders don't need sealant. .

 

use red loctite

 

How far are you opening them? 1/4-1/2 turn is all you need.

 

If you use a vacuum bleeder you won't get any seepage.

Better calipers will help, and so would some sylglide and new genuine brake bleeder nipples.

 

you WILL have a mess--- take it from a toyota line mechanic ---- thats why they invented "brake cleaner" !!

just make a mess--- and then clean it up !!! just a little spray will do it !!!!


i'll bet i can do the job with mess and cleaned up-DONE--- before you takeing all the time to trying to do without mess, can finish it !

(when you do it for a living--- time is money !!!!)

 

Well, it's good now. Just trying to tighten up the gaps in between threads and permatex thread sealant worked great. It's not so much the mess itself, just seems like everytime I need to bleed my brakes there's no one around. With my speed bleeders I can do it myself, but the threads were so bad I think it was sucking air back through the threads. Hit the brakes and I've got fluid everywhere including my epoxied floor. To those that helped or at least tried....thanks

 

I have run the speed bleeders (spring loaded check valve style) before and I put Loctite's thread sealant on the threads. It doesn't actually lock the threads, despite the name.

Seriously though, how often do you bleed your brakes? I think we need a picture of this truck so we can understand your obsessive compulsive nature. Its a Toyota, not a Bugatti.

 

Not sure what brake fluid does to an epoxy floor. I'd hate to soften it up. Normally my car sits on it but the yota has been there for the 1 ton swap. I've had multiple problems making me take stuff apart and rebleed. The lastest was doing a gm master kit with my own adapter thanks to searching here.
It's just me here. No help of any kind and I'd hate to ruin the floor finish over this. The garage floor turned out so nice now I don't want to work on it. Go Fig, again thanks for the help and advice. It's all good now.....

 

I know i'm coming in this convo late (because i simply found your 4x4 board and thread from googling "brake bleeder thread sealant")....but GEEZE you people need to drop the attitude. 4joker was very specific in his question, and most of the reply's were just a waste of space.

I was looking for the exact same solution. I'm a mechanic, and when i flush a brake system i like to use one way bleeder valves instead of a vacuum pump. Install a bleeder, hose, and catch bottle, and use the brake to move the fluid: Done. and its the way the system is designed to work.

But after a few uses, the factory sealant on the auto bleeder threads wore off, and, like 4joker, i was looking for a good sealant. The best option turned out to be the most obvious - dry locktite on the threads.

So thanks to Mrboyle, Calibre, and 4Joker. You guys were helpful. The rest of you, if you fail at reading comprehension, or just feel like being an ass, drop the attitude and walk away from the thread.

 

I know i'm coming in this convo late (because i simply found your 4x4 board and thread from googling "brake bleeder thread sealant")....but GEEZE you people need to drop the attitude. 4joker was very specific in his question, and most of the reply's were just a waste of space.

Some people fell through the crack when it comes to Darwinism. Isn't it obvious if the threads are that loose the threads are wore out or maybe they have the wrong bleeder installed in the past? try replacing one with the correct one if still loose you need new calipers.

 

4joker :homer: Have you considered JB weld? I think it will seal up those threads works great on hydraulics.

 

Or is is cockiepoos?

 

I know i'm coming in this convo late (because i simply found your 4x4 board and thread from googling "brake bleeder thread sealant")....but GEEZE you people need to drop the attitude. 4joker was very specific in his question, and most of the reply's were just a waste of space.

I was looking for the exact same solution. I'm a mechanic, and when i flush a brake system i like to use one way bleeder valves instead of a vacuum pump. Install a bleeder, hose, and catch bottle, and use the brake to move the fluid: Done. and its the way the system is designed to work.

But after a few uses, the factory sealant on the auto bleeder threads wore off, and, like 4joker, i was looking for a good sealant. The best option turned out to be the most obvious - dry locktite on the threads.

So thanks to Mrboyle, Calibre, and 4Joker. You guys were helpful. The rest of you, if you fail at reading comprehension, or just feel like being an ass, drop the attitude and walk away from the thread.

Next time, don't register just to lecture people.

The shit is called thread sealant, what the fuck do you think it does?

 

Speed bleeders often have the tip machined off center causing them to leak. If that's the case, toss them and put in another set.