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Discussion starter · #1,043 ·
Lots of vendors are making 14 bolt pinion guards out of 3/8" plate. Add 3/16" AR steel to the bottom of an existing guard? Sounds easy enough. What do we have to do---just add "818" to the part number?
Nice!!!

So I hardfaced the bottom edge of the pinion guard. I also hardfaced the bottom of the diff cover. Then I added the 3/16 AR to the bottom of the diff.

Fired it up today too. I sent the 2 fuel pumps back and got them rebuilt. They sent them back with flow charts:eek: Now I have a good 10g wire that goes to the relay thats next to the fuel pump and a 10g wire to the fuel pump. Also a spare relay there too. On top of that I have a 3 position toggle switch wire with; Auto:Off:On Auto would be run by the CPU. So ya I have a new spare fuel pump in the truck.

One more day of work and on the trailer it goes to go out to TDS.
-Tighten the jam nuts on the links (rear lowers are loose)
-Check front R/P and load bolt
-Install rear diff cover and add oil

Not too bad for a truck that just ran 90% of KOH.
 
Ya.... The pinion guard had been on there for ~8 years.
I know a guy who has a 14 bolt similar to yours and for years and years he never even got a single scratch on it anywhere.

You seem to really know what you are doing, and seem to be having a lot of fun, but I think you may be using your truck too much, and apparently driving it way too hard, if your not careful it may wear out.
 
Discussion starter · #1,047 ·
I just got back from TDS. Wow what a blast!!!!!! It was nice seeing the racers out there just relaxing, we all needed it after KOH. We did manage to go in to the obstacle course on Friday and get in a bind AGAIN, but this time very little body damage. On Saturday morning, we ended up pulling the drive slugs, we ate threw the needle bearings in the spindles. I guess they did last a long time KOH and all, other than that we just drove it. And all day Sat was a 2x4 pre-runner fun, hell we even made it threw some trails our buddies could not with there 4x4's:eek:

So I hardfaced the bottom edge of the pinion guard. I also hardfaced the bottom of the diff cover. Then I added the 3/16 AR to the bottom of the diff.

Fired it up today too. I sent the 2 fuel pumps back and got them rebuilt. They sent them back with flow charts:eek: Now I have a good 10g wire that goes to the relay thats next to the fuel pump and a 10g wire to the fuel pump. Also a spare relay there too. On top of that I have a 3 position toggle switch wire with; Auto:Off:On Auto would be run by the CPU. So ya I have a new spare fuel pump in the truck.

One more day of work and on the trailer it goes to go out to TDS.
-Tighten the jam nuts on the links (rear lowers are loose)
-Check front R/P and load bolt
-Install rear diff cover and add oil

Not too bad for a truck that just ran 90% of KOH.
So a few things about this^^
The load bolt on my JANA76 had some wear. So I hard faced that too. We welded on the hardfacing with a TIG, after facing it, it was still a little soft. I called Carl Janz he said "Heat it till its red and quench it in water. Do it a couple of times" So after that I was able to sand it smooth and give it a high polish.

Also the fuel pump.............Did it again, I think that the Walboro pickups I have do not flow enough, I read that its been an issue with the bigger flowing pumps somewhere. So the next line of business is to get a small trap door baffle/collector thingy where the fuel can be drawn from and returned to.
Like;
Lightweight Surge Tank, ST110 - Collectors / Surge Tanks
Or;
Collector, ST100-6 - Collectors / Surge Tanks
So the fuel system is going to come back apart and the truck will be down for a while. I will be getting everything ready to go race the NorCal Stampede.

Good job on the race. If your looking for abrasion resistance. My work does tungsten carbide impregnation mostly on ar400 for heavy equipment
Thanks Evan, I will hit you up when I need some stuff like that done, for sure. I got most of the rear done now, but I have a feeling that the front is going to get some work done on it soon.

Seeing the grinding properties of the granite out there and the damage it caused many trucks first hand was :eek:, hard facing is definitely a good idea.
I know a guy who has a 14 bolt similar to yours and for years and years he never even got a single scratch on it anywhere.

You seem to really know what you are doing, and seem to be having a lot of fun, but I think you may be using your truck too much, and apparently driving it way too hard, if your not careful it may wear out.
Like Stephen from ORD said,
I've been up in the air about running a pinion shovel but after riding with you and Jimmy Jack and being part of the reckless disregard for the tail end of the driveshaft I'm sold that they're a good idea.
To be honest, once the front tires get over the rear WILL follow, weather it wants to or not............:smokin:
 
To be honest, once the front tires get over the rear WILL follow, weather it wants to or not............:smokin:
Did you use too race dirt bikes? I used to say that back when I was doing motocross.

Now that KOH is over, can you post a pic of your t-case mount.
I'm fabing a mount for my ORD Mag box now. At this point I going with stock Chevy t-case mounts. But looking for what other did. Thanks
 
Discussion starter · #1,049 ·
Did you use too race dirt bikes? I used to say that back when I was doing motocross.

Now that KOH is over, can you post a pic of your t-case mount.
I'm fabing a mount for my ORD Mag box now. At this point I going with stock Chevy t-case mounts. But looking for what other did. Thanks
I don't think I have any pics also I don't think what I did is "correct" and defiantly not approved by ORD:shaking: I have the ORD motor mounts (1.75" bushings) so those are pretty close together. And I have more of the same bushings way out to the frame at the T-case. Its not good because the T-case cannot really move but the motor can. If I were to do it again I would run all the bushings in line or even closer together on the T-case and further apart on the motor. Also my original setup used the bottom of the crossmembers as the mounts for the skid plates. That is NOT correct. I have a completely different structure under there now to support the skid. Remember if the skid bends up so does your t-case.....................
Pics I can find.
 

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Thanks for the reminder to NOT let the skid plate hit the t-case crossmember under load..
You have one hell of a support for the skid plate for sure. I just hammered mine flat :homer: My thought was keeping the weight down so it could be field serviceable. It's 3/16 and weights in around 70-80 lbs Even that is a bit of weight to hold with one hand and start a bolt with the other. So I created a simple hinge so I only have to lift one side and slip in the hinge bolt. Then lift the other side and slip in a hinge bolt. From there its a piece of cake to bolt it into place.
 
Discussion starter · #1,051 ·
Thanks for the reminder to NOT let the skid plate hit the t-case crossmember under load..
You have one hell of a support for the skid plate for sure. I just hammered mine flat :homer: My thought was keeping the weight down so it could be field serviceable. It's 3/16 and weights in around 70-80 lbs Even that is a bit of weight to hold with one hand and start a bolt with the other. So I created a simple hinge so I only have to lift one side and slip in the hinge bolt. Then lift the other side and slip in a hinge bolt. From there its a piece of cake to bolt it into place.
Nice! Ya its heavy but not as heavy as others and defiantly stronger. The AR plate needs WAY less bracing. The bracing I used was 1.5" C-cannel that's it. And the pic of the crossmember I posted is the old one. The new one has a 1"x3/16" flat stock standing up on the top to help it from deflecting. And I ran 2 of them the rear is bolted to the rear bearing support to help with the weight. I am terrified that I will break the rear of the TH400.
 
Discussion starter · #1,053 ·
Look what I found today.......................
 

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Discussion starter · #1,056 ·
Oh that sucks!
Sometimes i can't believe the beating this this takes.. :eek: That sucks. Now where are the plans gonna take you?
Well the axle did have a hard life. I don't think the 2 are related. But the axle shaft did have a lifetime warrantee so I will pursue that for a sec. Then the axle housing might have to go to a professional welder/fabricator (not me) and have the king pin(s) welded on. Bomber Fab maybe...........:D
 
Your junk was flying like it was a Cadillac out there, you have some nicely tuned shocks for sure. :smokin:

Bummer on the axle. Welding is doable but for somebody to do a good job your going to have to pull the axle, as I would want a bead in the inside too.
 
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